As the boat slowly chugged across the dark blue waters of Lake Superior, I could feel the excitement building. The sprawling, remote wilderness of Isle Royale National Park lay ahead, an isolated sanctuary of nature that few ever get to experience. It was a place I had dreamed of visiting for years — a true escape from the modern world, tucked away in the northernmost corner of Michigan, where the forest meets the water in a raw, untamed embrace.
The island is only accessible by boat or seaplane, making it an exclusive destination for those willing to make the effort to get there. As we approached the island, the tall, rugged peaks of Rock Harbor greeted me, marking the beginning of the island’s wild beauty. With no roads or highways to traverse, Isle Royale is a paradise for hikers, backpackers, and adventurers who crave solitude and pristine wilderness.
My journey began at Rock Harbor, the main access point to the island. The harbor is dotted with small boats, docks, and rustic cabins, but beyond that, nothing but dense forest and the occasional glimpse of the turquoise water greeted me. I could already feel the rhythm of life here — slower, simpler, in tune with the land and the water. There are no cell towers on the island, no Wi-Fi or interruptions from the outside world. It was as if time had slowed down, offering a refreshing and almost spiritual break from the noise of everyday life.
My first day on the island was spent hiking the trails around Rock Harbor. The Greenstone Ridge Trail beckoned — a challenging 40-mile trail that runs the length of the island, offering spectacular views of Lake Superior and the island’s dense forests. With my backpack filled with the essentials, I set off early the next morning. The trail wound through the dense woods, with towering pines and hardwoods offering a peaceful canopy above. The quiet of the forest was only interrupted by the sound of my footsteps and the occasional rustle of leaves as a squirrel or deer darted by.
The island is home to a rich variety of wildlife, and though I didn’t see any of the famed wolves or moose on the first day, I was still mesmerized by the sights and sounds of nature. The solitude of the island was both peaceful and humbling. Each evening, I would camp along the trail, setting up my tent at one of the designated campsites. As I lay under the stars, I couldn’t help but feel a deep connection to this place — a place that had remained untouched by human hands for centuries.
The next day, I continued exploring, deciding to take a boat tour to see more of the island’s remote shorelines and inlets. The boat ride around the island gave me a different perspective on the rugged coastlines and wild, untouched beauty of Isle Royale. The water was calm, the sky clear, and the sunlight danced on the surface of Lake Superior. In the distance, I spotted a few moose grazing along the shore and some otters playing in the shallows.
I spent the rest of my time on Isle Royale hiking, kayaking, and marveling at the untouched beauty of the island. The feeling of being disconnected from the world, surrounded by only nature, was one of the most refreshing experiences I had ever had. There was no rush, no deadlines, only the freedom to explore and appreciate the raw, natural beauty around me.
On my final day, I boarded the boat back to the mainland, feeling a sense of gratitude for my time spent on the island. Isle Royale had given me an opportunity to slow down, reconnect with nature, and leave behind the chaos of modern life. The island, with its untouched wilderness, abundant wildlife, and tranquil solitude, had shown me that sometimes the best journeys are those that take us far off the beaten path.
Here’s a guide on how to plan your trip:
1. Location and Accessibility
- Location: Isle Royale is situated in Lake Superior, off the coast of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, near the Canadian border. It’s part of the National Park System and is Michigan’s only national park.
- Access: The island is isolated, with no direct road or car access. Visitors must travel by boat or seaplane to get to the park. There are several transportation options to choose from.
2. Best Time to Visit
- The park is open year-round, but the most popular time to visit is from mid-June to mid-September. This period offers the best weather for outdoor activities, such as hiking, kayaking, and camping. During these months, the boat and seaplane services operate regularly.
- Winter (December to March) is for more adventurous visitors, as it’s quieter and offers a chance for cross-country skiing or winter hiking, though services and accommodations are limited.
3. Transportation to Isle Royale
- By Boat:
- The Isle Royale Queen IV is a passenger ferry that operates from Copper Harbor in Michigan (approximately a 6-hour drive from Detroit or a 1.5-hour drive from Houghton, MI). The ferry service runs from late June to mid-September. It’s a scenic ride that takes about 3.5 hours to reach the island.
- Voyageur II is another ferry service that operates from Grand Portage, Minnesota, and also runs from mid-June to September. The ferry ride is approximately 2.5 hours.
- By Seaplane:
- Kenmore Air offers seaplane flights from Houghton, Michigan, or Copper Harbor to the island. The seaplane ride is faster (about 30 minutes), but it’s also more expensive than the ferry.
- Airline options are limited, so it’s best to book well in advance, particularly if you’re traveling during peak season.
4. Where to Stay
- Campgrounds: Isle Royale National Park has several campgrounds that are accessible by boat or hiking. Some of the most popular campgrounds include Rock Harbor (the park’s main hub), Daisy Farm, and Three Mile. If you plan to camp, make sure to obtain a backcountry permit, which is required for camping outside of designated areas.
- Lodging: If you prefer more comfort, the Rock Harbor Lodge offers a more traditional accommodation experience with cabins, hotel rooms, and a restaurant. It’s the only lodge on the island and offers a unique and tranquil experience in the heart of the park.
- Backpacking: For those who enjoy backcountry adventures, there are more than 165 miles of hiking trails, including the Greenstone Ridge Trail, which offers multi-day backpacking opportunities. There are campsites along the trail, but hikers must secure permits ahead of time.
5. What to Do on Isle Royale
- Hiking: Isle Royale offers some of the best hiking in the U.S., with a variety of trails for all skill levels. The Greenstone Ridge Trail is the most famous, stretching the length of the island with incredible views of Lake Superior. For shorter hikes, the Rock Harbor Trail and Daisy Farm Trail are great options.
- Wildlife Watching: The island is famous for its moose and wolves. Isle Royale is one of the few places in the U.S. where wolves and moose coexist in the wild. The park is a prime location for wildlife watching, particularly along the shoreline or in the dense forests.
- Kayaking and Canoeing: The waters around Isle Royale are ideal for kayaking and canoeing. Kayak rentals are available at Rock Harbor Lodge, and there are many opportunities to explore the coastline and hidden coves of the island. The calm waters make it perfect for a leisurely paddle or a more adventurous journey.
- Fishing: Isle Royale is also known for great fishing. You can fish for lake trout, yellow perch, and walleye from the shore or by kayak. A Michigan fishing license is required.
- Scenic Tours: If hiking isn’t for you, take a boat tour around the island to see the stunning shoreline, isolated coves, and dramatic cliffs. It’s an excellent way to get a comprehensive view of the park.
6. What to Bring
- Essential Gear: If you plan to camp or hike, bring sturdy footwear, a good backpack, and appropriate hiking gear. Isle Royale’s terrain can be challenging, especially during rain or storms.
- Fishing Gear: If you plan to fish, bring your own rod and tackle or rent equipment on the island.
- Clothing: Weather on Isle Royale can be unpredictable, so it’s best to dress in layers. Even in the summer, mornings and evenings can be cool, while midday temperatures can be warm. Be sure to pack waterproof gear, as the island is known for sudden rain showers.
- Insect Repellent: During the warmer months, bugs like mosquitoes can be abundant. Be sure to pack insect repellent to avoid getting bothered by them.
7. Permits and Fees
- Park Entrance Fee: There is no entrance fee for Isle Royale National Park, but if you are staying overnight, camping permits are required. The backcountry permits are free, but if you’re staying at Rock Harbor Lodge or other accommodations, booking in advance is recommended.
- Fishing License: If you plan to fish, a Michigan fishing license is required for both residents and non-residents. These can be purchased online or at various retailers near the park.
8. Travel Tips
- Plan Ahead: The ferry and seaplane services can fill up quickly, especially during the peak season. Be sure to book transportation and accommodations well in advance.
- Weather: Be prepared for rapidly changing weather. Isle Royale can be chilly even in summer, and sudden storms are common. Bring layers, waterproof gear, and sturdy shoes.
- Leave No Trace: Isle Royale is a pristine wilderness, so be mindful of your impact. Follow Leave No Trace principles and make sure to pack out all your trash.
Visiting Isle Royale National Park is a special experience for nature lovers, adventurers, and anyone looking to escape into a world of solitude and beauty. Whether you’re hiking its rugged trails, paddling its serene waters, or simply basking in its wilderness, Isle Royale offers a rare opportunity to disconnect and immerse yourself in nature.